The local shops can at least chuck it on the machine to give you the readouts even if they dont want to touch the adjustments. At least that way you will know how close you have gotten it.

I remember getting mine all pretty close with tape measure, chalk, 2ft square, spirit level and an angle gauge for the pinions like your planning. Castor I use a straight edge across the rim then the spirit level on the straight edge. The straight edge was just to allow the spirit level to get a reading without the tyre bulge getting in the way.

 

Yeah, you can do a lot with a tape measure, angle cube, axle stands with strings.
But what were you thinking buying all this stuff and fitting yourself if you didn't have a shop interested in tidying it up? Sometimes it's better to buy through a shop.

In saying that have you tried APE suspension in Landsdale (Perth North)?
They say yes to a lot of things, I even once got them to go over my old BMW E34 after I fitted KMACs one time, and they're a 4wd shop, not a 35 year old euro BMW sedan shop. I didn't buy anything off them either, I just looked them up because some German BMW guy said look for someone with a beissbarth alignment machine.

 

Do all measuring when vehicle is parked on flat and level ground.

Panhards are easy to adjust. Measure the how much the tyre sticks out one side. Measure how much the tyre is recessed the other side. Add the 2 measurements. Divide by 2 and that should be how much you need to adjust the Panhard - most likely lengthening as it should have been set at Standard length from new.

 

For caster you can use your i phone with an app called "angle finder" it has a vertical gauge on the right to set the phone vertical. The main angle gauge is very actuate. You set the front wheel straight and hold the phone against the top king pin bolts phone sitting on the king pin plate assembly. Or for even more accuracy you can use a app on your iphone called iAlign. You remove the free wheeling hub assembly and hold the phone on the hub flange. You need to mark out 20degrees on the concrete so you have a way to judge the turn of the wheel both ways to have the phone do its magic just like the wheel alignment shop does. IAlign does camber as well just so you can check that.

You can use the same app angle finder on your i phone to do your tail shaft flange angles by adjusting your upper links. Make sure you use the little angle gauge on the right to keep the phone square for the absolute accuracy.

To do panhard rods i use a laser light to align the front diff. You set the rear diff central to the chassis first with what ever method you invent, i use a straight edge on the outer rim and measure to the chassis. GU chassis are bit all over the place so setting the front from the chassis is a bit out there hence the laser light. GU chassis lower control arm chassis attachments are never equal so you have to use your best guess to align the front diff. When you start doing this you will understand what i am talking about. If you have a GQ chassis then all is equal within a millimetre. If you are crazy like me i have adjustable rear lower control arm links so i can have a perfect symmetrical alignment front to rear diffs with equal wheel bases left and right.

For front toe alignment a tap measure and a scribe works well. lots of ways to do this on UTube, do a bit of a search.

 

laser light to align the front diff.

Could you expand on this a bit? I must be missing something but I don't see why centering front & rear axles would really be any different.

I had NFI that such phone apps even existed for the angles of the dangles. I'll just crawl back under my rock.....

 

You mentioned mistakes well yes your first one was not learning how to drive a 4wd and see what it's capable of and where your going to take it before deciding if you think you need to do any mods. Doesn't happen much these days people go straight for mods before learning about the vehicle which takes years and you'll be surprised where a stock vehicle can go too many people are more concerned about impressing mates with a big lifts and having no clue how to use it correctly. You'll learn more about picking lines instead of just bashing through the bush thinking nothing can stop you. Big lifts don't mean the vehicle is more capable off road it's the person behind the wheel that makes a difference. All your doing is costing yourself more and more money for no reason if you haven't figured that out and you have a lot more to spend yet which you could have avoided and spent that money on useful stuff like camping gear etc.
Ditch the 4" and stick to 2" for lots of legal reasons then all you would have needed was 2" springs, shocks, brake bias bracket, brake extensions hoses but not always necessary, anyone will be happy to do a wheel alignment and they can check the castor if it needs doing it's all very simple. Same thing with wheels stay legal so your not a cop magnet. 285 tyres generally fit good with a 2" lift where 33" can rub so more mucking around for a few millimetres of tyre.